Rhonda: Hi y'all. Our stop today was at Cape Verde ( or as the cool kids call it Cabo Verde). It is part of Africa but it is a small democratic country off the coast of the Western Sahara consisting of several islands. I don't really know what to think of it. The coast line had astonishingly beautiful beaches that in any other part of the world would have resorts and surfers galore. But here, it was completely undeveloped and empty.
Now, mind you we were in yet another sketchy taxi situation. He offered to take us for a 3 hour tour for $80 and show us all of the beaches, take us up to the top of Mt. Verde, and to the little town near the port for lunch. So I said yes and we piled in his old pickup. But this time we had cash and no credit cards would be pulled out, for sure! We have PTSD and we worried more than once that this is when he shakes us down but luckily all was well.
Chris: He actually turned out to be a very nice guy and he tried to take good care of us it's just that his English was not great, better than our Portuguese, so we didn't get a lot of information. I had a ton of questions but I couldn't really get it thru to him what I was asking. Things like, what do people here do for a living, how much are these houses, why is there zero development? And, he yelled at people on his phone constantly, we couldn't figure out if it's just that the language is harsh to our ears or if he was upset with whoever he was talking to but it got a bit annoying.
But man what a strange place, it was beautiful, absolutely beautiful. Rhonda and I have been to beautiful beaches in the US, Australia, the south of France and the Caribbean and the beaches in Cabo Verde were right at the top of the most beautiful we have seen. And there is nothing there, no hotels, no restaurants or bars, no resorts, no people. Just the beach and the water and nature and the sound of waves. It was very strange but it also gave me a feeling of joyful isolation, like we were the only people who knew this was here. Or actually like we were with a guide who yelled on his phone all the time and couldn't communicate with us who was the only person who knew it was there, but you get the point.
But before the beaches we went to the top of Mt Verde. I forget how high it is but Professor Google knows if you're interested but it's way up there. We left the paved road for a cobblestone I guess you could call it road and started up. It was so rough and bumpy and our guides truck was not in great condition and rode pretty rough on the pavement but now on the rock road it would have been smoother on horse back. It was knock your teeth out rough. I was sure I would be peeing blood by the time we got up the mountain and then back down. But wow the views, it's all volcanic and the ancient black lava flows down to the beautiful sand and clear blue green water was spectacular. So beautiful looking out the side windows, don't look straight ahead or down though. The road was barely wide enough for one car, much less two and there were no guard rails. We would meet another car or a van and even buses and we would squeeze over to the edge to pass. It was straight down, and our driver was obviously more concerned about yelling on his phone. Rhonda and I were hyperventilating but somehow we made it to the top.
Coming down we passed two groups of women with yellow construction vest on, a work in progress sign and nothing else, no truck or cooler or anything to sustain them and the sun was intense. The first group of three there was one woman literally digging in the ground on the side of this mountain road with a pick ax while the other two watched. I said to Rhonda, what the hell, did you see that ? She didn't. I couldn't explain it, then I see another group of three coming up so I get her attention and say tell me what you see. This time it's the same thing except instead of a pick ax this woman is shoveling dirt into a wheelbarrow. To move it where ?
Either group could not possibly be accomplishing anything. I said that to Rhonda then said apparently somebody just dropped them out here to move dirt piles and dig holes in the ground with a pick ax and she said from the prison I guess. I feel for those women and what the hell but when Rhonda said that I cracked up. I have to think she's probably right. I don't have a better explanation.
Rhonda: I thought I was going to get car sick for the first time in my life. It was pavement to rock to dirt. We saw women walking with water jugs on their heads up there. How do they do that? No hands, just walking down a path with a 5 gallon jug on their head!?! Oh at one of the beaches it was us and these guys just trying to find some shade.
Our driver dropped us off at a cute little restaurant in the main part of old town near the port. Customer service is not Cape Verde's speciality. The wait staff literally grunted at us. Nevertheless we had the local beer, Olives with goat cheese, Grilled shrimp, and a hot crock of beans and rice with piri piri sauce. It was very good and a nice change from ship food.
We got back on the ship and took a little nap and got ready for dinner. We had reservations at the Japanese habachi type place. It was very fun. The chef was funny and we sang along with him the whole night. And the food was great. Some of the best on the ship.
To wind this up, this island has such commercial potential. I don't know if it's politics, the volcano eruption prospects, the remoteness or what, but man what a missed opportunity. I would comeback to stay on that beach if there was a resort, a bar, restaurant and happy wait staff!
We have a day at sea and then Tenerife, Canary Islands next. We also lose another hour tonight so tomorrow we will be 5. hours later than central time.
Love y'all.
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